Tuesday, May 23, 2017

Dave's Wrap Up

Dave's FB post about the big E



After being in Nepal for over a month I've discovered a few things. 
For years, you can plan, ponder, prepare every last detail, and stand where no other mountain is higher and still not reach your goal. After 7 hours of climbing in the wind our guides made a choice to turn us around at the South Summit. Disappointment and discouragement were higher than we were. But we were also reminded just a few feet off our route why this is the world's highest graveyard and why there's wisdom in listening to those who have been where you have not.

Refusing to be done with the climb, I discovered mother nature controls summiting big mountains and not once but twice was crushed by attempts that would not happen.

I witnessed strength and determination in my climbing buddies Thomas Wilkinson Larry Daugherty Brandon Fisher who could have summited a peak twice as high as Everest.

The majesty of the Himalaya has changed my DNA.

I've made eternal friendships from the trek to base camp and with mountain guides that could have formed in no other way. My wife continues to elevate her rock star status. I've realized once again across all 7 continents and all the experiences this wonderful world affords, what really matters is what's back home.

Friday, May 19, 2017

Lessons from a cobbler..

Tonight while roaming the streets of Kathmandu, comfortably meandering as I had dreamed about for weeks - in shorts and flip flops, enjoying the sensation of perfect temperature, I noticed a stagger in my gait due to a sudden 'snap' of the front thongy-thing part of my left sandal.

Well, shucks I thought. Time for a new pair of $1 flip-flops. Like literally $1 is what I paid for these cheapos, and that was years ago. I was not overly disappointed, these things had lived a good life - and luckily, I'm in Nepal where surely I can find an equally cheap pair of new ones.

So I began my quest. Asking any passerby where the nearest shoe store was. Shoe store? More than one person asked me with a confused look on their face. I would point to my broken flip-flop, thinking that English was the barrier to my intended message. Probably not. Each and every time, strangers would tell me that I didn't need a shoe store, what I needed was a cobbler. A cobbler? I would think.. I know that word from the 1800's and my visits to Sturbridge Village and Williamsburg where old-time re-enactments had taught me that a hundred years ago, people would get their shoes repaired rather than buying a new pair.

But come on, these are $1 flip-flops! I don't need a freaking cobbler. I just need a new pair of sandals. So I kept asking people, looking for the answer I wanted as to where a shoe store might be. I kept getting the same frustrating answer about a dang cobbler.

I happened across a couple of shoe vendors, but agonizingly for me, they did not have any flip-flops for the relatively large feet of this foreigner.

My limp really started to annoy me. With no thongy-thing to stabilize the bottom, the front part of my flip-flop would very annoyingly bend underneath my foot and nearly trip me with every step. I started to think I would pay $20 for a new pair, if I could find them in my size. I just wanted to roam the streets, free of worrying about falling with every step.

Just then I saw him. Out of the corner of my eye, a man seated on the sidewalk with a selection of needles, thread and a little stool. "Please sir," he said. "Sit down, I fix your shoe." Mostly believing this was a waste of time and effort, but at the same time desperate to be able to walk normally, I figured what the hell, let's give this a try.



I watched as the master went to work on my 'shoe.' In and out, and in and out with the needle and thread so quickly. Less than 5 minutes later, to my amazement, a .50 cent flip-flop was repaired.


The price of the repair? Ten cents. I placed it on my foot, impressed that the footwear was entirely functional - good as new really. I had come seeking a new pair of shoes, a shoe store, a comfortable solution to my problem. I did not get what I wanted, but I did get exactly what I needed.

As I reflect on not just the last 6 weeks here in Nepal, but on the years of preparation, planning, training and scheming leading up to our climb of Mt Everest, as painful as the last few days have been, my conclusion is now very similar with respect to the climbing experience. Everest did not give me what I wanted or what I came for. But I do walk away with what I needed from this experience.

My step-mother posted something on Facebook that has been rolling around in my brain - she encouraged me to focus on the 8750 meters that we did climb rather than the 98 meters that we did not. As I heed that good advice, the mental results are pretty astounding to be honest.

I've read everything I can get my hands on about Mt Everest. And mountaineering in general. I've seen all the movies. You might say it's been a bit of an obsession. I've had the privilege of climbing now on 5 of the 7 summits and I have climbed all over the world with an amazing and strong team of valuable friends.



Above is my buddy Dave Snow as he ascends the fixed lines on the Lhotse Face. The Lhotse-friggin' Face!!! Us! We've read about it, dreamt about it, now here we are climbing it.

This is in huge part due to the guy pictured above. I've called Dave superhuman, and I wasn't ego-stroking or metaphorizing..I really mean it. You see, in 2010, while on my first big mountain (Rainier), I crumped at 8,800'. Overheating, overpacking, undertraining, under-hydrating, under-eating - there were a lot of lessons on that trip for me. But I did crump. In a pathetic heap on the Muir Snowfield. Literally seeing blackness and stars, semi-conscious and wondering a bit what the heck I had gotten myself into. Immediately to my side was Dave Snow, trip organizer and Rainier-veteran of at least several times to my recollection. This is where Dave transformed to superhuman in my eyes, as he heaved my 65+ pound pack ontop of his own and without asking me, started trudging his way up the snowfield, extra backpack in tow. Through a storm. Like a bad storm with sleet and freezing wind slamming us straight in our faces.

Dave (and a phenomenal buddy Cecil, pictured below with Ueli Steck less than two weeks before he tragically died - we got this news while at EBC just minutes after it happened) carried my pack for about 1,000 vertical feet, then stopped shy of Camp Muir shelter so I could salvage some pride and walk into camp sporting my own pack.


As said above, I learned some hard lessons that day. And I've had the opportunity to pay it forward. I've since carried many packs for struggling teammates and have led several of my own climbs for rookie friends up that life-changing Mt Rainier.

But most experienced climbers would be done with a 2010-rookie performance like mine. Not Dave Snow. He invited me on Aconcagua - where I tried my absolute best and trained like a monster for a year, but had to turn around shy of the summit due to pulmonary edema.

I did manage to summit Elbrus with Dave. And led a team up Denali through brutal conditions and eeked out a summit there.

I feel like I'm sometimes accused in my 'real life' of never failing. Of everything just working out for me. I'll admit, I have a wonderful, full and rich life. I have a beautiful family, amazingly supportive wife and a dream job. I have been able to go on some just incredibly unique adventures and have had the most enriching life experience. But I also must say, these are things I have worked hard to achieve, very hard. And yes, there are many failures along the way. My secret has always been my ability to keep trying, to stick with it. You shoot at the hoop enough times and a ball is bound to drop. I shoot at the hoop a lot. Sometimes people only see the swishes and miss the ten air balls leading up to that swish.


And here I am on Mt Everest. The rookie that crumped on Rainer. The guy who turned around on Aconcagua. On an elite team with the opportunity of a lifetime. Sponsor patches on my chest.

There she is in the background. Mt Everest! It takes weeks just to be able to see her, much less climb on the mountain herself.

Once we hit the elevation where oxygen was required, it was completely revolutionary for me. I felt nearly as good as sea-level. It was interesting - after climbing with these guys for years, I know that some of them just seemingly are unaffected by altitude or certainly, to a much lesser extent than myself. Ironically, when it was time to don the O2, some on the team noticed almost no benefit in performance, but to me, it was like I could totally all of the sudden understand blood doping and I was able to move 3x faster and just felt amazingly strong.


Back to my buddy Dave, as he ascends the Lhotse Face between Camps 3 & 4. I yell to Dave, excited as I'm taking this picture - pointing out the Yellow Band (the slanted band of rocks just after the furthest climber in the picture). And I point out that we're about to go over it, then onto the Geneva Spur (the large hump in the background to the left). Dave of course knows this as well. But I'm choked up with emotion at just the thought. Dude! We're on the Lhotse friggin' Face and we're about to go over the Yellow Band! And the Geneva Spur! Then on to the South Col - and holy cow, we'll be in position for a summit bid for reals!!! I say something to Dave about George Mallory and Hillary and Norgay and all the legends before who have walked these steps. And now it's our turn - just wow!!!


Tom - working his way up the Lhotse Face as well on an excruciatingly hot day in our down suits.


Lhakpa demonstrates how to use our oxygen masks and regulators for the first time.



Danu Sherpa and myself. This guy is as tough as they come.



Team Chupacabra entering the icefall for the last time upward


Brandon, Pasang Sherpa and myself sharing a tent for a few hours of rest at Camp 4 before trying for the summit.


Incredibly beautiful morning we left EBC for our push to Camp 2


Tom, determined ever upward on a tough day on the Face.

And there it is. The ride out of EBC we've all been dreaming about. We hadn't intended to be leaving without those last few hundred feet to the summit. As hard as it is, just perhaps that's exactly what we needed somehow out of this whole experience.


I saw this banner hanging in Namche Bazar on Buddha's birthday regarding the true meaning of life. It has simplified my perspective to thing of things in this way.

The cobbler on the street did good by me. For 10 cents, he solved a very annoying problem of mine pretty instantly.

I return home without the fame of having summited Mt Everest. I return knowing that I will get a million well-intended sympathy comments or awkward comments or people afraid to even ask about my experience here. That's no one's fault. It just is what it is. The natural first question is 'did you summit?' I'll be thinking, well, that's what I came for. It's what I wanted. It's what I trained for. It's what I felt I had deserved. But maybe, just maybe, it's not what I needed.

Most people are aware of the sad reality that climbing Everest means seeing dead bodies. Our first trip through the icefall we saw our first body - a decapitated Sherpa believed to have died in an avalanche in 2007. Then there was the trauma of Ueli - a hero of all of us. We had all looked forward with amazement to see him not only repeat the incredible 1963 Hornbein/Unsoeld West Ridge climb (without Oxygen) but to top that all off with a traverse of Lhotse. I mean, we were going to be with this guy at base camp - maybe get to meet him like our buddy Cecil did! Hearing the news, seeing firsthand his body being flown down to EBC for confirmation - all of this was so sobering.

But for me, most sobering was between the South Col and the Balcony having to literally step off trail to avoid stepping on a body. Then stepping over that same body on the way down..right about the time the I could hear the jet stream above Everest and the winds were howling so intensely even at the South Col that I could not imagine how much worse it was up there at the summit. It was then that I knew that those 98 meters were not a curse to be contended with for the rest of time, but a gift - likely a gift of life. A gift of my 5 children seeing their Dad again next week. Of reuniting with my incredible sweetheart. And of this chance encounter with a street cobbler who fixed my not-so-useless flip-flop for only 10 cents.

Below are some selected videos of the summit push. My post is a bit disjointed here, but I wanted to sneak these in here..






And That's a Wrap

I got the message from Dave that Lhakpa made the decision for Dave to come back to base camp.  The supposed "weather window" is marginal at best and it could be days before there might be a chance.  It's just not worth the risk.  He is back at base camp now and we have finally been able to really text back and forth for the first time in a week.  He will be flying out to Khatmandu tomorrow and meet up with Tom and Brandon for their flight on Sunday.  He is obviously extremely disappointed.  I'm trying to keep the positivity going and convince him of what a great accomplishment the whole team has achieved.  

I'm sure this will be a tough time for all of these guys.  We can all say- but you basically made it!  And- but the most important thing is you are safe!  Which is all true, but the words fall a bit flat.  To train for months (years) and go through all of the hell it takes to get there- just to have it snatched out of your hands minutes before the finish line (because of factors beyond your control)... it will just take some time to process.

Thanks everyone for following along and supporting this incredible journey.  These four guys are amazing climbers but more importantly amazing men.  That's probably why so many people have tuned in... they have friends everywhere and are the kind of people you want to root for.  This has truly been an experience.  Can't wait to be reunited soon and hear all about it!


Thursday, May 18, 2017

Summit Attempt Recap/What Happens Next

Larry pretty much sums it all up so well in this post below.  I must admit, I shed a few tears reading it... but back to hoping, praying and positive vibes for my "superhuman" husband!

Quick update with full report coming after some food & sleep. You can imagine an exhausting few days. Myself, Brandon & Thomas are now off the mountain & back in Kathmandu. However, superhuman David remains at Camp 2 with another window on 5/21. So there is still hope for Team Chupacabra to make the summit (insider tip - that's been our self-given team name and chant since Aconcagua in 2012). We pray for Dave's success and safety.
Well, I guess we can say we've been to the second highest peak on Earth. Believe it or not, the South Summit of Everest is higher than K2. But still, just heartbreaking to have been less than 400' from the top of the world.
I'm a bit ashamed to say that I was like the mailman arguing with Rob Hall when it came time to make a decision. We deliberated for quite awhile. I felt very strong and knew we could make it. Having been near the top of many mountains close to dawn, I argued the winds we were experiencing were just typical pre-dawn mountain winds. My argument almost won out. Wisdom came first from Brandon, who also was very strong and I know wanted to summit just as bad as the rest of us. But when he began his rappel down the South Summit, I was convinced finally that it was time to turn around.
Long story short, here is a view of the scene as we returned to Camp 4, nearly 3,000' lower than where we turned around. Add a couple of hours to this (the time it would've taken to summit) and add 3,000' of elevation. As I looked up at the summit when we reached camp and could actually hear the jet stream above, I about kissed the ground in gratitude that we had made it back - probably turning around just in time. Crossing the South Col just to get to camp was a challenge, winds strong enough to about knock you over. Tents blowing away or destroyed.
Hindsight is 20/20 and in this case I'm thankful that others were more convincing than me in the moment and that wisdom won the day and we're all safe & alive with no frostbite as a result.
I didn't mean for this to be so long. Just wanted friends & loved ones to know I'm off the mountain. Thank you everyone for the support & prayers.
Thank you Alan Arnette for the kind analysis of our team's summit push & decision-making:
I half-expected some criticism if our decision to even attempt on the 17th. To my knowledge, we were the only team attempting the summit on that day. It's been a tough weather year with limited opportunities to attempt the summit. We knew wind was in the forecast, but were racing against it with an early start (8:45pm). We were in (we thought) perfect position at the South Summit around 3am, plenty of time (we thought) to top out and beat the 'real' wind. Well, the wind came earlier than we'd expected gosh darn it! Anyway, just thank you for the praise Alan and not roasting us, lol.
Enough for now. Very, very heartbroken & disappointed. But I promised my wife & many others before the climb that o would be at peace with the outcome. I'm getting there. We gave it all we had, the mountain just had other plans that day.
Now Climb On Dave!!!!!!
I have received many texts asking me how I'm feeling etc.  I said on my FB:  Anyone is wondering my opinion on the matter, Dave texted me to discuss the options. He told me he was still feeling strong. I told him if he thought he could recover quickly enough and would be strong enough to continue- that he should give it another shot! I told him if he is heading up and is moving slow or does not feel he will have the energy to make it safely down that he should turn around. He has already accomplished so much! 

He promised he would be safe and I trust his judgment. Larry so graciously left his "in reach" device which doesn't have much battery left but at least gives us an option to communicate a little bit. I am so grateful for that.  Lhakpa will also be communicating via radio and will be texting me with updates.  Many have asked if he will be alone- no, definitely not alone.  He will have his Summit Sherpa who has been with him the whole time, he's one of the best.  They also will be alongside a big group from the parent company who is running their operation.  To me, this allows support but also flexibility if they need to move as a smaller team.  

My hope now is that Dave will feel lifted up by all of the prayers and positive thoughts on his behalf.  It must feel a bit alone up there.  He texted this morning and said the 21st is off, might be looking at the 22nd.  As always, weather and energy level dictates what happens.  I sort of feel like we have been in a reality TV show the last several weeks.  He's the lone survivor up there.  Hoping that no matter what happens next, he will be home within the next week.  Starting to miss him just a bit :)



Wednesday, May 17, 2017

And Now We Wait

Thought we could all use a laugh this morning :)

I wish I had great news today.
I wish I had more information.
I wish I could talk to Dave...

but... none of those things are happening right now.  It has been a roller coaster of highs and lows the last 24 hours, although I'm sure nothing compared to what those four courageous, strong and determined climbers are feeling.  At this point, we know the guys made it safely back to Camp 2 this afternoon.  For those of you following the tracker back to Base Camp, Brandon headed down to basecamp but the other 3 remain at C2 for now.  We are not exactly sure if Brandon is heading out for good or if there is a chance he might go back up.  Communication is sparse right now.  He had decided beforehand that if this attempt didn't work out, he would be heading back home.

Lhakpa said to us last night that the forecasts have been very confusing.  He had 3 different sources that gave that small summit window.  He was glad they got the message to turn around since safety is the number one priority.  It turns out the guys were at about 28,700 feet when they had to turn around.  That has got to be agonizing being at that point and not being able to continue.  However, a decision that most likely saved their fingers, toes and even their lives.

For now, we wait.  Supposedly there is a somewhat longer and more stable weather window coming up around the 22nd.  From what we can tell, everyone else is planning on the same forecast and the crowds will be assembling at camp 2 shortly.  I know they were relieved to be able to attempt the summit with low crowds so they could move quick and not be in danger of bottlenecks.  That timeframe has now closed.  If the guys are able to recover and feel ready they will have the opportunity to try again.  I'm sure it is an extremely difficult decision.  Luckily they have a few days to rest and decide at Camp 2.  They can send more supplies and oxygen should they want to continue.  I'm not sure we will have any way to track them and base camp (where Lhakpa is running the operations) has spotty internet so this might be a pretty long week with sparse communication.  Please continue to pray for their safety, clarity, strength and another shot if that is feasible.

I will leave you with a thought by Teddy Roosevelt that my friend Ryan left on my Facebook page:

"It is not the critic who counts; not the man who points out how the strong man stumbles, or where the doer of deeds could have done them better. 

The credit belongs to the man who is actually in the arena, whose face is marred by dust and sweat and blood; who strives valiantly; who errs, who comes short again and again, because there is no effort without error and shortcoming; but who does actually strive to do the deeds; who knows great enthusiasms, the great devotions; who spends himself in a worthy cause; who at the best knows in the end the triumph of high achievement, and who at the worst, if he fails, at least fails while daring greatly, so that his place shall never be with those cold and timid souls who neither know victory nor defeat.”

As always, thanks for all of the support.  All of the families feel very blessed to be surrounded by so much concern and love right now.  Hope to have more info tomorrow!


Tuesday, May 16, 2017

Mountaineering Life :(

Some disappointing news from 28,000 feet.  We just got word that the guys had to turn around at the South Summit due to the jet stream.  They knew it would be a small window and took a chance but in this case, it was not in the cards.  They are heartbroken as is the support crew at home.  We aren't sure if there will be another shot, let's hope there is.  They are back at Camp 4 and I'm assuming heading down further to a more stable place.  Everyone is safe as far as we know.  We've only received a short text.  Thanks for all of your support and prayers.  In the end, the most important thing is that everyone return home safely.

Moment of Truth!

I've never stared at a computer screen more intently in my life!  Watching that little dot move on the spot tracker is exhilarating and also makes me forget to breathe.  They are now at about 28,000 feet... only 1,000 more to go.  All of their hard work, preparation, determination and luck comes down to the next few hours.  Everyone practice your relaxation techniques :)

Monday, May 15, 2017

Heading to C4

UPDATE:  The team is headed to Camp 4, they are about half way so far and making great progress!  Lhakpa says they are doing well and that the weather is good so far!  Keep the good news coming!

Camp 3- Lines Are Fixed!!

The lines are finally fixed to the top!  A sherpa team made it early this morning and there were a few sherpa summits!  

I just heard from Lhakpa, the team made it safely to Camp 3, had dinner and are now sleeping on oxygen.  He said they are doing great.  The plan is to head to Camp 4 in the morning, rest for a few hours and start heading for the summit probably between 9pm to midnight (their time on the 16th).  So hopefully watch for an update between 5pm-midnight (our time) tomorrow night (16th!)  I'm not sure they will have a way to text/call but Lhakpa should be able to text us.  

From everything we have heard this will be a fairly short weather window so they need a bit of luck and prayers right now!  The great news is most of the teams are still at base camp so hopefully they will not see the crowding issues that were a big concern earlier.  Historically, this team is usually able to move pretty fast if they are not stuck behind other people so let's hope they are still able to do so at this altitude (relatively speaking.) 

Climb On- to the top!

Sunday, May 14, 2017

Moving to C3

Just got a message from Lhakpa that the team is moving up to camp 3.  He says the weather has been very good up there and looks good.  He said the group is doing great and safe so far.  He will update us when they get there!

Saturday, May 13, 2017

Camp 2

 I received a message from Lhakpa this morning that the team made it to camp 2 and is resting now.  They stay here two nights to recover and conserve energy for the next push. Hopefully more good news to come! 

Friday, May 12, 2017

And So It Begins!



This morning Dave let me know that they have decided to start heading up for their summit bid!  They will leave EBC around 3am and the goal is to make it to camp 2.  Dave has taught me to never get too far ahead of myself on planning out their summit days because there can always be outside factors.  But for those of you that might enjoy speculating and wishful thinking, here is the proposed schedule taken from Larry's earlier FB post:

Day 1: EBC to C2 (May 13)
Day 2: Rest (May 14)
Day 3: Move to C3 - start O2 (May 15)
Day 4: Move to South Col (C4) (May 16)
Day 5: Summit, descend as low as possible, ideally C2 (May 17)
Day 6: Descend to EBC (May 18)
Day 7: Return to Kathmandu by chopper and fly home as soon as flights can be arranged (Yes, this will be great!) 

As for the summit night, people have asked me what the plan usually is so I wanted to put it here (as best as I understand it.)  Once they get to Camp 4 (South Col) they will rest for a few hours until they are ready to head out to summit.  So they don't really "sleep there" just resting and waiting.  They will leave anytime from 9pm to midnight. Dave said it should be around 8 to 12 hrs up to the top, half that to get down. However, crowds usually dictate the amount of time it takes.  So if you don't feel like doing math this early in the morning, it means they will potentially summit anywhere from 6am-noon(ish) on the 17th- or 6pm to midnight on the 16th OUR TIME. PS- if anyone who knows more than I do is reading this and realizes I've made a mistake or miscalculation- please let me know!  I'm actually not even sure what day it is anymore :)

A word on crowds- I have been reading a lot of different blogs of teams who are there and others who have insider information.  It seems that the general vibe is that there are a lot of people and a lot of permits but not an exorbitant amount like they were once worried about.  Everyone was talking about how crowded it would be this year and so far, that doesn't seem to be a huge factor.  That might be a different story once they are up there, but let's hope not.

So now is the time to start sending positive vibes and prayers their way.  They are about 12 hours ahead of us here in Utah.  I was able to connect with Lhakpa on WhatsApp so I'm hoping to get updates at least once a day.  The guys also have the In Reach device that is not the most user friendly necessarily but can get short messages out usually.  We will also be tracking their progress on the spot tracker:


I'm not sure if the battery will hold out long enough to track the full expedition, I know it was giving them some issues on their last rotation so it might not be fully accurate.  But let's hope we can watch them all the way to the summit!  Keep good thoughts!



Wednesday, May 10, 2017

Everest: No Respecter of Persons

Larry's Facebook Post:

Today I feel a bit like my 5 year-old boy Charlie attempting to scale the world's highest peak. The last 24 hours have been a humbling reminder that the mountain has no emotion and does not care - we are at her mercy and, in the words of Tenzing Norgay, can only hope she allows us to reach the summit as a child crawls onto his mother's lap. There is no conquering of this mountain.
We had received word yesterday morning that the fixed lines were placed to the summit. This early report was incorrect. Lines are in as high as The Balcony, but the Sherpas had to turn back due to deep snow and unsafe climbing​ conditions.
Weather the next few days calls for very heavy additional snow, meaning it's very unlikely IMO that the lines will be in for at least several more days - assuming the forecast is accurate.
Bottom line, we will continue to be patient and adjust our schedule as needed. But our window of reaching the summit on May 16th as we were planning, is seeming increasingly unlikely.
For now, we're staying in Namche for one more night with plans to return to EBC tomorrow. Hoping we can start moving up the mountain within a few days, but the weather and Sagarmatha dictate those plans. We will do what is safe.
Once we do start moving, our planned schedule looks like this:
Day 1: EBC to C2
Day 2: Rest
Day 3: Move to C3 - start O2
Day 4: Move to South Col (C4)
Day 5: Summit, descend as low as possible, ideally C2
Day 6: Descend to EBC
Day 7: Return to Kathmandu by chopper and fly home as soon as flights can be arranged

Despite the bummer news of the past 24 hours, we all remain optimistic and hopeful. Just a stark reminder of the need to be patient and that we are not in charge, the mountain is.
As an aside, today is Buddha's birthday celebration in Namche. We are about to witness a parade from the monastery. One of the Buddha quotes hanging on a banner in town reads:
"There is nothing more dreadful than the habit of doubt. Doubt separates people. It is a poison that disintegrates friendships and breaks up pleasant relations. It is a thorn that irritates and hurts; it is a sword that kills."
So I'll say it again - Climb On!!

Having the guys go back to EBC is good because they will be in position but just tougher conditions up there.  Also, the internet is pretty spotty so it will be back to random small spurts of communication.  I have enjoyed talking on the phone and being able to text with Dave a ton these last few days as well as get these awesome long updates from Larry.  Each day, I constantly refresh several different blogs I have found of teams who are up there and others who seem to have inside information.  It's helpful to me because these are some of the only places on the internet I can actually go that speak positively about this journey- and come from knowledgeable people who are not skewed by sensationalism.  Once I tried to google "Everest wives support"... yeah, that doesn't really exist (and not a great idea to look anything like that up by the way haha.)  Chaci, Prairie and I (Brandon and Larry's wives) have each other which is such a blessing!

These guys have such a great outlook at a time where I'm sure it is difficult to stay positive.  Dave told me yesterday that he is in it for the long haul, if there is a chance to summit he will stay to do it.  Thankfully there are so many great people at home who help support the rest of us.  There was a time a few days ago I though he might be able to get up there early and come back within the next week.  I should know better than to get my hopes up- this isn't my first rodeo :)


Monday, May 8, 2017

Tenzing Norgay


Larry does it again, here's another great post!  

Today we trekked to the Sherpa museum and statue of Sherpa Tenzing Norgay (who summited with Hillary in '53).
Pictured is our head guide and Everest legend, Lhakpa Gelu Sherpa, who holds the world record for the fastest ascent of Mt Everest in 2002 with an ascent from EBC to summit in a smoking 10 hours and 56 minutes. To put it into perspective, it takes most teams 4-6 days to accomplish the same feat. You might say our team of 4 is in good hands!! We have a 1:1 ratio of Sherpa to climbers (with a backup Sherpa as well) and each of our Sherpas have been to the summit at least once, most many times.
As to an update, high winds have continued to prevent completion of fixed lines from Camp 4, so no teams have summited to date. Likely, the ropes will be in place by May 10th.
Our Sherpas have been working tirelessly to stock the upper camps with oxygen, tents and other supplies.
We are aiming to leave EBC May 12 which would put us on top on May 16 if all goes according to plan.
Until then, resting up for another day or two in Namche. Weather down here is perfect!
Looking forward to getting back to EBC and starting the climb in earnest.
Climb on!


Side note, I just read some other information that the winds have died down and there possibly might be a sherpa summit within the next 24 hours.  This might move their date up a day or 2, just depending on logistics.  Let's hope it gets some groups to the summit and back down in the next few days to let the crowds die down a bit!

Saturday, May 6, 2017

Namche


From Larry:  Fixed lines, oxygen bottles and upper mountain won't be ready for our team for at least a few days. So we decided to seek thicker air at Namche Bazaar to recover before our summit bid. Wild heli ride down here. But rewarded by pizza! We'll likely stay here 2-3 days. Looking to head back up to C2 on May 10 or 11, pending logistical readiness.

Following the creed of Anatoli 'touch grass before summit.'

Climb on!

My friends who have been to Namche describe it as the nicest village along the trail.  It has the nicest teahouses of anywhere, a couple of restaurants, tons of shops, a massage place, bakery, barber, coffeehouse, even a bar, etc--and it has great Wi-Fi.  I think it was a major boost for the guys to be here.  Dave said the air is much thicker and they each have their own room and bathroom.  I asked about acclimitization because this village is a about 11,000 feet and they said they were already acclimated.  Larry described it on his FB post after someone had asked the same question:

Excellent (and somewhat controversial!) question. This is my first experience with this approach, but after weeks above 17k, the 'touch grass before summit' philosophy has become increasingly popular in recent years. As we were flying down, a British group was headed back to EBC after having spent 5 days down low. They're headed for summit in the coming days and were very happy with how they were feeling. Proponents argue that once appropriately acclimated, descending allows the body to heal and adequately rest prior to summit push. This probably comes at a small cost of acclimatization, but I do believe the benefits outweigh the risks. I've seen in sled dogs that short bursts of intense training followed by some planned rest maximizes performance as microinjuries that the musher never sees can heal up before a big race.

Anyway, time will tell if we made the right call, but I think it was the best decision as we would have been waiting 4-5 days at base camp for fixed lines and O2 to be in place. We're feeling really good here, much more active and eating well, etc.

They are with Lhakpa and he thinks it was a good idea, so let's hope this stay gives them the needed rest and recovery to have a successful summit.  I was able to talk to Dave and video chat for longer than 20 seconds so that was pretty great.  Pray for good weather and good health!



Thursday, May 4, 2017

Don't Try This at Home


One more pic :)

Back at Basecamp

Here is a great post from Larry's Facebook:

After 3 days on the upper mountain, we're back down to base camp and resting for our summit bid - hopefully next week!!
We spent a night at C1 and 2 nights at C2. The Lhotse face and climb to C3 did not disappoint and was extremely difficult. Our team reached a new lifetime high point of 23,700' - higher than Aconcagua!
I had sent FB updates with my InReach, but technical difficulties apparently.
Thanks everyone for the support! Iditarest is feeling more possible than ever - I'm optimistic after having reached C3. Next time we go up, it's for the summit!
Climb On!!









Wednesday, May 3, 2017

C3 Then Back To C2

Still haven't talked to Dave, but Chaci and Prairie have communicated in short bursts with Brandon and Larry.  They have a cool device called "In Reach" which basically gives you satellite wifi.  They can only send a few lines but it's nice to stay in touch.  They have a spot tracker where you can also track their progress.  It's really cool and updates about every 10 minutes when they are on the move.  

I also wanted to post a really cool website that a few people have sent me, which lets you see 360 degrees from the many spots including the summit of Everest in a virtual reality type experience.  You can follow along the journey of a group of climbers.  It was awesome to be able to get a small idea of what they are seeing and experiencing.  You can watch it here.

From what I can piece together the camps they have been at are moderately established. Tents, an outhouse that is over a crevasse etc.  There are usually mess tents and the Sherpa's do all the cooking.  Camp 2 seemed like a nicer camp.  One of the challenges up there is not to overheat or freeze- at times there is risk of both.  Also, it is just so dry you have to do whatever you can to keep your throat from drying out.  Making it up to touch camp 3 was a challenge.  It's 23,500 feet.  Next time they get there, they will get on oxygen and remain on oxygen until after the summit.


According to plan, they will be back to basecamp tomorrow and will take anywhere from 3-8 rest days depending on what they need and also the weather.  Pray for a nice long summit window so everyone gets an opportunity and it will reduce crowds.  If there is only a short window, it means everyone tries to summit on the same day.  With any luck we will see our first summits by Sherpas within the next few days.  At that point, the fixed ropes will be all the way up to the summit and the route will be established for the climbers to begin their summit attempts.

Climb on!

Tuesday, May 2, 2017

Waiting Game

Just wanted to post that I don't have much news at this point.  I was able to message with Lhakpa yesterday and he told me the team was doing great at camp 1 and was moving to camp 2 today.  Dave warned me that there might not be internet up there so we will just wait some more.  Lhakpa said he would keep me updated so that is comforting.  The guys are planning to "touch" camp 3 tomorrow, then camp for one more night up there.  The should be back to base camp on Thursday, can't wait to hear all about it!

Saturday, April 29, 2017

Khumbu Icefall


The group had their first crack at the Khumbu Icefall today, just a training run- over half way up.  Dave said it was not what he expected, less horizontal ladders than expected and actually really fun.  I've heard it described as an adventure lovers ultimate obstacle course.  

This is an a FB post from Larry today:
First trip up the icefall - check! Super fun. Everyone is down safe and did great.
Tomorrow (sidenote, they decided to actually take a rest day tomorrow and begin the next rotation on Monday) we commit to the upper mountain for a few days, hoping to spend a night at C1, night at C2 and at least touch the altitude of C3.
Climb On!